Straight razor: the ultimate shaving experience

Features of a straight razor

An open razor may look simple, but it is made up of several components. The most important are:

Blade: the sharp, cutting part.

Handle: also serves as storage for the blade.

Tang (or ‘tail’): located at the back of the blade, it provides extra stability during shaving.

Like a pocket knife, a straight razor is a folding knife, with the blade safely stored in the handle when not in use.

How to choose the best straight razor

Thanks to its rich history, the straight razor has evolved into various types, each with unique characteristics.

Types of straight razor

Dutch point

Rounded tip, safe and ideal for beginners.

Less precise, but the risk of cuts is minimal.

Square point

A classic design with a sharp tip.

Requires experience and precision for safe use.

Spanish point

Combines rounded and square features.

The subtle curve helps prevent cuts while still offering precision.

French point / barber point

Similar to the Spanish point.

Ideal for those with some experience but not yet experts.

Blade grind

The grind of an open razor determines how sharp and user-friendly it is. A full hollow grind offers a good balance between sharpness and control, making it perfect for beginners. For experienced users, there is the extra hollow grind, which is even finer and more delicate. This makes it ideal for thick beard growth, but it does require more precision and care when in use.

Size

The size of an open razor is measured in eighths of an inch, ranging from 4/8 to 8/8. Larger sizes such as 7/8 and 8/8 offer more cutting power but are harder to control, and therefore only recommended for experienced users.

Shavettes

A shavette is a budget-friendly option that uses replaceable blades. Ideal for beginners who want to skip the honing process or try out traditional shaving before fully committing.

Hollow ground straight razor vs. hollow ground pocket knife

A hollow ground open razor and a hollow ground pocket knife use the same grinding technique but serve different purposes:

Hollow ground straight razor

Specifically designed for precise shaving of facial and body hair. The blade is extremely thin and flexible, allowing it to slice effortlessly through hair. This makes it quite delicate and unsuitable for other tasks.

Hollow ground pocket knife

This knife is more versatile, with a thicker and sturdier blade suited to everyday tasks like cutting rope, wood and food. It is easier to maintain and less fragile than a razor.